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Thursday night Wargrounds with US103rd


J5_Hotlead

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Salute all! Had a blast flying tonight on Cuban's server! Super-low cloud cover made navigation quite interesting to say the least lol! Thanks for keeping things fresh Cuban! :D



 



Here is the archived Twitch stream:




 



I've been experimenting with adding a webcam to my streams. This time, I had the camera view my controls as I flew. In previous streams, like my ARMA III and BF 1 streams, I had the camera view me. Feel free to let me know what you guys prefer! :)

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I always hate to miss the earlies.  You just don't see enough opportunities to fly them.  I think I would have liked to fly N17 though   :)

 

Concerning Wilhelm's comment about Hotlead gliding home.  It's not that unusual in RoF at all, especially when you have that kind of altitude.  It's not that uncommon to see folks glide all the way home to their aerodrome, even from the enemy side of the front, sometimes quite far behind!  That's why they say altitude is life I guess   ^_^   RoF is fun that way!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys! I was able to make the fly-in this evening! Here is the archived stream:





 



You will notice that this week's stream is in 2 parts. That is because my joystick/throttle went on the fritz while flying...twice. :(



 



Hope to have that solved soon!!! O_O

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Hey guys! I was able to make the fly-in this evening! Here is the archived stream:
 
You will notice that this week's stream is in 2 parts. That is because my joystick/throttle went on the fritz while flying...twice. :(
 
Hope to have that solved soon!!! O_O

 

 

I heard the Windows device disconnect sound when you lost your game controllers, Hotlead.  I think Vickner's suggestion of going into the device manager and turning off the suspend mode for the USB controllers sounded pretty worthwhile to try.  I also had a lot of ports that would do what yours are doing, right after I built my new computer.  I ended up moving devices around onto different ports until they kept working flawlessly all the time.  With all the USB ports my motherboard has, only about 4 or 5 of them are reliable, which isn't enough for all my stuff.  So I actually had to add a USB add-on card internally that provided another two USB 3.0 ports.  My quadrant and pedals are now plugged into that, and work flawlessly.

 

I'm also going to try Vickner's suggestion...who knows, maybe those ports will work reliably.  However I doubt that I'll start switching things around again, now that they're working excellently in their current configuration.  Best case, I could get rid of my USB add-on card, and have a spot for a sound card again, which I had to give up to do what I have now.  But it's a PITA switching things around and testing, and I don't want to find out it doesn't work right in the middle of an online flight.

 

Let me (or us) know how it works out for you.  That's a real problem!

 

EDIT:

 

Here is what the setting looks like in the Device Manager.  Under the "Universal Serial Bus controllers", right-click each sub-heading that you have, and go to "Properties".  If the device has a tab called "Power Management", uncheck the box shown in the screen shot below; then hit "OK".  Everything that has the word "Hub" in it, and some others, will have this tab and setting.  Do each one in turn until you've done all of them.

 

Hopefully this will help!

 

ff4ee55105.jpeg

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Another area that might be just as important!

 

I got to thinking about the whole controller ID thing after talking with Dudley and others about that.  I knew that CH Products have their own heading in the Device manager, and I was poking around there to see if there was a setting in there concerning IDs.  Guess what....some of the CH devices have the same power setting as the USB devices!  So it might be just as important to turn those off, also:

 

500adb70ad.jpeg

 

Who knows, maybe it will help Hotlead.  Can't see any harm in turning the setting off there, too!

 

S!

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Hotlead, if you're flying with CH and have trouble with the Control Manager, here is what I've been doing:

 

http://forum.jg1.org/topic/5375-fix-ch-products-control-manager-after-windows-10-creator-update/?do=findComment&comment=34105

 

It still has issues every once in a while, but these steps have drastically reduced the issues.

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Yet another place to change settings!

 

While watching your livestream and seeing Kanonen's chat to you, the way he worded his advice made me remember that there are Power setting options in their own group, in the Control Panel.  I checked there under Advanced settings and found this, which also pertains to USB:

 

52ad69b9cb.jpeg

 

Maybe this is the correct place! Keep trying!

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Hey guys! Had a lot of fun tonight! Here is tonight's archived livestream...in 3 parts. Yeah. Joystick still disconnecting. I will continue to work on fixing it! Thanks to all who have suggested things and tried to help! I haven't had the time to try Klai's suggestion yet, but that's next on my list. I also found this:


 

Maybe worth a shot? I just don't know too much about the registry.

 

Anyway, here is this evening's livestream(s):



 



Part 1




 



Part 2




 



Part 3




 



As most of you know, JG1_Barton is hanging up his virtual pilot's goggles soon due to real life concerns. I hope to be able to squeeze in a flight with him this Saturday, but in case I don't see him again, here's a heartfelt salute!!! One of the best fighter pilots I've had the honor to fly with/learn from. I'm gonna miss you man!

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  • 3 weeks later...

....PS: No controller issues this evening! :D  :D  :D

 

Have you had any issues since getting rid of your old pedals?  It's very possible they were causing all the trouble.  A USB device with an intermittent short circuit can cause the +5 volt supply to be unstable when it's happening, or even cause the USB controller it's using to possibly lock up.  It can take a while for an intermittent failure to develop into a total failure.  This kind of thing is always suspect when you're having system-wide computer troubles that are hard to isolate.  The procedure generally followed is to disconnect one device at a time and try things out again for a while, until the problem device is found.  It doesn't have to be an external device...sometimes a bad drive or other plug-in device inside the computer can be the cause.

 

Perhaps that was always your problem?

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Have you had any issues since getting rid of your old pedals?  It's very possible they were causing all the trouble.  A USB device with an intermittent short circuit can cause the +5 volt supply to be unstable when it's happening, or even cause the USB controller it's using to possibly lock up.  It can take a while for an intermittent failure to develop into a total failure.  This kind of thing is always suspect when you're having system-wide computer troubles that are hard to isolate.  The procedure generally followed is to disconnect one device at a time and try things out again for a while, until the problem device is found.  It doesn't have to be an external device...sometimes a bad drive or other plug-in device inside the computer can be the cause.

 

Perhaps that was always your problem?

 

That could very well be it. 

 

Granted, when I first hooked up the spare pedals Raz sent me, I still got occasional disconnects. Also, the 2 USB 3.0 ports in the back of the PC appeared to be dead. However, when I went into the Device Manager, right clicked on my PC, and selected "Scan for hardware changes," the ports went back online again. An online article I read suggested that if some devices were suddenly disconnected from a USB port, it could cause the port to act "dead" when it only needed to be reconfigured. Everything seems to work fine now. Since I scanned for hardware changes, I have not had a single disconnect. 

 

We'll see if my luck holds. I am very hopeful! :)

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That's encouraging, but I'm afraid it's still possible that you could have problems again.  When a device fails (inside your pedals), most often it will draw far too much current for a short amount of time (short), until it burns out, and then "opens" (like it's not connected anymore, and draws zero current).  This could damage the source of the power (your motherboard). The port, or group of ports that the pedals were connected to before, could become unreliable, or eventually fail, causing you more heartburn.  I always tell people "it's not going to heal itself"....if there's any problem, it's only going to get worse.

 

IF.

 

You should have a look at your motherboard manual that pertains to USB ports and controllers.  Many times it will let you know which ports are on which controllers (USB0, USB1, USB2, USB3 on USB 2.0 VIA controller, etc.)  There will be a diagram showing which ports are which.  If you have a problem again, try disconnecting everything that is connected to the group of ports in question.  For one thing, although you should be able to use your USB 3.0 ports for your USB 2.0 devices (game controllers), you certainly don't need to, since all game controllers are USB 2.0, and so you gain nothing by connecting them to USB 3.0.  It will just work at USB 2.0 speeds.  Game controllers just don't pass very much data, so it would be a waste to make them a USB 3.0 or 3.1 interface.

 

Hopefully you'll have enough other ports to connect to; if not, you can add an additional two USB 2.0 ports with an add-on card, or use a powered hub.  You can stay in business.

 

I hope you won't have to deal with that situation, but if you do, you'll have some idea of what to try.

 

S!

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