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Canadian Ingenuity


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This is what I was speaking about to a few of the members last night on Ghost Skies. Check this thread out I posted on m4t. Its my Thrustmaster Hotas X (Which was donated to me brand new btw from a good friend). Moded with a PS1 Analogue stick over the hatswitch. Also used in conjunction with two programs.


1.) Joy2key, which allows my hatswitch to act as a mouse emulator instead of the predetermined 30 degree increments that you get when using stock hatswitch views.

2.) ControlMK, which allows me to assign multiple tasks to one button. (I.E. Left on hatswitch produce the left incriment view PLUS I assigned pressing left to my "h" key, which in IL-2 I programed it to "lean left")


Anytime I'm NOT in gunsight view and I click left on my hatswitch, my pilot also leans his body to the left using the newer 6dof keyboard commands that came w/ 4.11.1. Whenever I click right my pilot leans to the right as well as looking to the right all in one movement with one button. Its great for looking at my 6 o'clock area when I got an opponent on my tail. It allows me to see around the head rest without having to press another key to lean my pilots body over. Less work load on me + less thinking = more attention on opponent)


I didn't look any of this stuff up, as far as I know this is a one of a kind setup that I made here =] Born out of pure desperation to stop getting my ass kicked from you TIR boys ;) So as you obviously know, anytime I press my brake button its also my talk button. Well that very same button is also my "lean up" button. Condensing down my controls to be able to have the ones I use the most all on my stick is key for me. Anyway, just wanted to share my little invention. Here it is w/ pics..




Here is my next project. I'm going to go to the flea market (aka "The Dirt Mall) and try to pick up some old twist stick usb joystick to build my own custom rudder pedals. The idea came from this thread...




Its surprisingly simple. I even expanded on the idea and figured out a way to make toe brakes using the throttle on the side. I'm just going to find a spring big enough from Lowes/Home Depot, mount it in a way to where it sits in front of the throttle slider, then build a platform so that whenever I push on the brakes, it will push the throttle forward so my breaking will be just like a car. The harder you brake, the more you'll get.


Will post pics when I'm done =] I may be broke, but I got a little bit of smarts to compensate hehe

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Here is a pic of my 1st first version homemades

(have brakes now)

Also I have a set in waiting using cabinet slides

Ironically I like my T-bar...Its so strong, and make a handy foot rest.

Maybe spark some ideas for you.


Joystick $15.00 at tiger

Plumbing parts ~ $12.00


Good luck




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Good shit Schulte!! I didn't think of that either. Man my mind is going nuts. Anyone have any spare crappy old twist sticks that are collecting dust??


What are you using for the cable line there? I see how it would work for your right pedal but I'm not understanding how it would for the left. Is that cable line a solid piece of material or flimsy like steel wire or something?


My previous stick was a 12 year old Sidewinder 2 that just wasn't cutting it anymore because of all the slop in the middle. I threw it away like an idiot thinking there is no way it would be good for anything. I sincerely regret it now!


P.S. I love that flavor swishers too lmao. I use to use em for "herbal" substances way back when hehe

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I might still have my Logitech Extreme 3D Pro laying around. I'll have to shuffle through the garage. My Saitek is my current backup so I can certainly see about shipping that one out. Although you can pick up a new one for about $25. If I find it I'll post up here. I'm pretty sure Moxy is using the Y axis (forward back, it might be X).

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Ah okay, now it makes since Britch, thanks for clarifying.


If you have a spare stick and a few extra bucks to ship it I would be eternally grateful, if not there is no love lost brother. Most weeks I'm honestly struggling just to eat. My fiance and I recently gained custody of her 11 year old niece (not really sure for how long, could be short term, could be until she's 18) which makes my financial situation even worse. But I love the both of them regardless so were doing what we have to do. Eating less, saving cans, one meal a day (at least for me) etc etc. So even spending $25 at this time is so far out of the question its not even funny. Things will eventually get better, this I know. Just a matter of a time.


Hell, even this PC i'm using was built by me going dumpster diving behind a PC store lol. I got very lucky with what I found. Also there are plenty of construction sites within walking distance of where I live so I can easily go there and get building materials from the trash (wood, pvc, steel piping, etc.)

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The rod Im using it the pic, is a hardware store threaded rod.

I started with a coat hanger, and just rubber banded to hold on the bar and stick. (as a test)

Worked absolutely fine no slippage etc.

If you'll notice on the back side of the rod I have a turn buckle (the reason I used a threaded rod)

this allow me to shorten or lengthen the rod....manual calibration or trim.


You'll notice also the rod is connected off center (right of the tee fitting)

Being off center gives you the push and/or pull to the joystick.

Now the rod being solid, you'll need to have the rod connections pivot a little

Why the rubber bands worked, a little flexibility.

I have pivot points at both ends (rod) to allow this flexibility but with no slop (deadzone)


OK, since We've got your head spinning on how to make stuff.

These 15 dollar joysticks are great, to completely rip apart, and just use the electronics inside!

Button boxes, trim wheels, etc.. So you dont have to move the whole joystick, just the guts inside





Oh ps. You cant see it in the pic, But there a 2 springs (not really necessary, but gives centering and some tension...feel) connected

on the right/left of the tee fitting. Then connected to an eye screw on my base. The springs are attached to the tee bar, with cable ties.

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