-Hawkeye-

Well, I guess I have some 190's....the one (or ones) that are a standard part of the games. Any specific collector version that would be most needed, or maybe all collector versions of them?

716.59 MB. Just prior to 5:00 pm EST, it downloaded pretty fast for me, less than 5 minutes I think! This is what I currently own. Any suggestions on items I should get, considering what's on sale, guys?

Glad it finally worked! I'm going to edit the attached file in my original post so that anybody who wants to try it in the future will have all the proper files, the first time, in that one zip file. Good luck, I hope it's solved and you'll be back in action soon! S!

Is that something that happens within a sim, or is it just something you see in DIView? I noticed some odd jumping around like that on some of my axis, when using DIView. Before it had acted completely normal, then suddenly some of the axis' seemed to be jerky, or even jump from zero to 100, or whatever. I came to the conclusion that the readings just weren't registering in DIView, like it was for some reason, bogged down, or too busy, and couldn't keep up with the normal readings. Anyway, it was a window or windows in DIView called "<device name> Buffered". By default DIView would open one of those windows for each device. They record the actions of each device, and you can save them to a file if you want. In any case, it seemed like this recording was what was bogging things down. So I disabled that window for the device that seemed to be acting up, and voila....the action on the axis was smooth again in DIView. I never had an actual problem in any sim; everything always worked normally. It was just the way DIView was showing it. I suspect if you have a controller that is accurate and generates a lot of data points (i.e. 65,535, or a large amount of raw data), the recording part can at times bog things down....although, at times it did work normally even with those windows open and working. I also checked to see if the version of DIView I was using was the most current. The version that came with my MFG Pedals was the same as the one that came with my Virpil stuff. I am guessing they don't update it very often. If it is something that is only happening in RoF, it can be conflicting response curves for the axis that is acting up. See Butzzell's post from a few weeks ago concerning that. As for an actual hardware problem, I really don't know if or how often Hall Effect sensors actually go bad....I've had potentiometers most of my life, and even those last virtually forever, unless a connection to one goes bad (cheap, push-on connectors that get loose). For the time that I've had controllers with Hall Effect sensors, none have ever gone bad (I have had my pedals for a few years now).

Nope, I think I was wrong. I guess my memory of what exactly was needed along with that ModSearch program is flawed. What I did was list all of the files and folders in my "Rise of Flight" folder in order of date; that way all files with the same date are listed together. There is ANOTHER driver (.dll file) that I think is needed. It is attached below; it needs to go in the same location as the 2 files you already have. I am sorry about this. What I should have had initially was one zip file that had all 3 needed files inside of it, but I just didn't remember everything that required to have with the program. Just to clarify, none of these files will hurt your computer or mess up your game. They'll just stay in the Rise of Flight folder not doing anything, until you decide to run the program. It also won't hurt anything to set a program to run as administrator (as long as it's not a virus). Sorry again! UnGTPv2.zip

Maybe try browsing to the ModSearch.exe file location, left-click once on the file to select it, then right-click on that file, choose "properties", and then click on the "compatibility" tab at the top. Then click on the box of the bottom setting in that window (check mark it), called "Run this program as administrator". Then hit "OK". Then try running the program again. Honestly it's doubtful that a mod problem could cause your problem, in my opinion; normally that kind of thing happens when you're trying to run in "Mods On" mode and it's not working right. If you're in normal mode (no Mods On selected), the game really should ignore any mods files, regardless....so that really shouldn't cause the problem you're having. That said, I figured it might be worth a try. Have you run into the problem again after your last change to the BIOS? Maybe you're already fixed. Concentrate on trying to duplicate the problem by running the FiF mission for as long as you have time to, or as many times as you can try. At least you can get in some practice time, if nothing else. I hope that the problem won't reappear now. If it does, maybe Butzzell can think of something more to try that might help.

This was a weird one so I thought I'd post it here for others to read. A couple of weeks ago I started an RoF QMB mission in order to practice or figure something out. When I pushed my throttle forward to start my take-off roll, nothing happened. Funny, I had checked my flight controls....elevator, rudder and ailerons all worked. Mixture and radiator seemed to respond. Must be a response curve problem for the throttle axis, I thought. Checked and found nothing wrong there....just no movement. I also checked the altitude throttle axis on another plane, and that didn't work either. Uh-oh! Got out of the game and started DIView. Normally when a controller isn't working, the windows in DIView for it's axis' won't even be there. However, they WERE all there for the throttle; just no movement. The unresponsive axis' were the main throttle levers: X Rotation (Rx), and Y Rotation (Ry). I'm pretty sure the Z axis (Z), which is the wheel right on the main lever grip, was working, along with all of the other knobs and levers axis'. Rebooted computer, back into DIView....same problem. Tried this a couple of times, no dice. Now I'm really upset....part of the throttle not working, part working? Has to be within the hardware itself! Component failure? Went to Virpil website to the warranty section. Scanned my warranty card and made a .jpg out of it, to attach to my message. Figured I was going to be out of action for a LONG time and started wondering what kind of shipping I'd have to do to get it back to Lithuania for warranty repair. Just as I was about to hit the message send button, I thought: "they're going to ask me what I've done to troubleshoot and even tell me the stupid things to do, even though they can't possibly be the problem. I'd better do them first, just to prevent wasting time in this process". So I moved my monitor out of the way, shut the power switch off on the main power supply, and then disconnected and reinserted the USB plug multiple times, just to make sure the contacts were clean and making well. Obviously a waste of time, right? You can't have a USB connection where part of the device works, and part doesn't. It's all one serial data stream, and one power and ground supply. Not only that, I always tie down all of my USB connector cables using tie-wraps on the back of my PC, such that each one has slack in it at the connection point and the cable is neither pushing nor pulling on the connector. Then I make sure that when I push the box back, that nothing is touching or pressing on the cables or connections, so that there's no external pressure on any of them. I also never use USB extension cables, which add another connection point to go bad, and add signal loss due to the longer wire path. I always connect the device directly to the motherboard port, and never use a hub. The connection felt good, very positive, clicked into place and was very straight with nothing pulling on it; perfect just as it was. Pushed everything back in place making sure nothing touching, switched the main power supply back on, waited a minute or two, restarted PC. Guess what....throttle works perfectly in all respects, problem solved. What the? So you tell me how the hell an imperfect connection can cause only PART of a device to not work, while the rest of it works. One to file away for the future, under "improbable" or "misleading". S!

One other question would be: since I see that you upgraded from an original 660 to a 1060 video card, did you also at that time upgrade the driver? Big difference in card generations.....

Apologies again, I was hoping that you saw my edit in which I realized my mistake before you wasted time checking your .NET framework. I'm sure there is nothing wrong with it.... Just install the additional file attached in the above post, and the ModSearch program should work. By way of explanation, that program was originally gotten by me through the RoF forums a long time ago, and probably has no current means of getting it. I just know that the necessary files are installed on my machine; I just looked at the files inside my Rise of Flight folder and went by what is there now. I missed the necessary .dll file, but I am quite sure there are only 2 files needed, and that should be all that is required. EDIT: that is incorrect, there are 3 files needed, which are now all included in the archive attached to the original post. Sorry!

"....unfortunatly it doesn't work for me because trying to use it (after I placed it in the RoF-Folder) I get an .NET-Framework-Error telling me that File or Assembly "ROFTools.Common, Version=1.0.0.0) was not found…." Oops, sorry....my bad. It is also necessary to place this additional file in the same location as the ModSearch executable file (see attached file). Unzip and place in the same "Rise of Flight" folder location. After that, the ModSearch program should work, as explained earlier! Sorry for the confusion....! ROFTools.Common.zip

EDIT: see the following post for the necessary file needed to make the ModSearch program work. After trying that.... Since it seems that you are not extremely familiar with BIOS or Afterburner, you may still try to enter the BIOS on your next boot-up and set all settings to default. Most often, you do this by, when starting or rebooting your computer, when you see the BIOS "splash" screen (or in some cases, BIOS initial testing screens), you hit the "delete" key repeatedly. Once you see that it has entered the BIOS utility, look for the instructions on the screen somewhere that indicate how to move and select menu items. Via this, try to reset BIOS settings to default through the setting that is made for that. In almost every case, this will not cause any additional problems with your computer; that is why those settings are default. If you have ANY doubts as to how to do this, you can consult one of us (many in JG1) who are familiar with such procedures. I or we don't know how you got your computer. If it was purchased, the supplier may have enabled certain settings that are now causing you trouble....i.e. overclocking settings. If you at some point did that yourself, it might now be wise to revert to the default setting in order to troubleshoot. I think it's important to say now that, it's your computer, and you shouldn't do anything that makes you uncomfortable. Put your trust in what you trust. However, I would say that it is generally safe to eliminate programs, if you can easily reinstall them later. One thing I'd like to add, that might be a little too late in this case. Your GPU (video card) is an nVidia xx60 series. This is cheap, but a relatively low grade of performance capability. This in turn may make overclocking seem like not only a good alternative, but almost a required one. The advice I give now can't help you with your current hardware. But in the future, I would suggest that the performance gain of an xx70 or xx80 series nVidia GPU might be worth the extra money spent to get one, in order to avoid overclocking. After all, only you know what games you play, and in each, what settings that are necessary to fulfill your needs. In general, it is best not to overclock. It often goes beyond the capabilities of the hardware; problems often come down to settings that are imposed on hardware by software (or firmware: BIOS). The result can be situations that are similar to your own, when hardware can't RELIABLY do what the software (or firmware) is telling it to do. In that case, it is best to eliminate all "overclocking" and just let the hardware do what it's advertised as being capable of doing. After reverting to those settings, if your hardware still won't at at least give you some reliable level of performance in the games you play, there is most probably something wrong with the hardware itself. Unfortunately this is a real possibility, considering that overclocking can cause physical damage to hardware. In the end, I would not suggest waiting until the next FiF session in order to troubleshoot. You have the files that you need to test on your computer, right now. All that you need to do to test is to start up RoF, and then go to Multiplayer. Instead of entering an online server, push the button for "Create New Server". Then on the right side of the screen, scroll through the list of missions until you see one for FiF 2019 Winter. Select that and then hit the ">" button displayed there to put it in the list of missions to run. Then tell it to run.... At that point, it should be just like entering any other Multiplayer server, but nobody but you will most likely be able to see or enter it. Then you can do whatever missions you like without interference, and test to make sure your hardware or software/firmware settings work reliably. My apologies, if I am assuming some level of unfamiliarity that doesn't apply to you. I don't mean to offend at all. I hope by over-explaining, it might avoid any possible confusion. S!

Very good description, Etzel; thanks! I would not attribute it to FiF specifically; my guess is that it's some kind of video setting inside the RoF game, or one that is bound or associated to RoF specifically by some other program, like nVidia Control Panel, or maybe your MSI Afterburner utility. It seems apparent that your monitor is losing it's video input signal completely; that's why you get the standby mode from your monitor. In other words, it seems like your GPU is crashing. The first thing to try is to see if your GPU crashes when you're playing RoF on some other server, or in single player. Try to recreate the same conditions that you have when flying in FiF. Fly for at least as long (including any practice time that you may have played before an FiF session), and fly in areas of heavy video stress (near the ground, over cities, trees, etc.). If it never happens while flying in other areas of RoF, and only happens while flying FiF, there could be a remnant of a mod still in your game somewhere. However, I doubt that, because normally that would cause a DTD (Drop To Desktop or CTD, Crash To Desktop), and not a complete loss of video signal altogether. However, anything is possible. What is unclear to me is what exactly are you doing with the Afterburner utility? Is it overclocking the video card by either manual settings, or even some automatic increases that would step up speeds in response to greater demands? Honestly, if it were me, I would disable all overclocking to start with, both in the system BIOS and also I would disable or even uninstall the MSI Afterburner. In the BIOS, it is best to start with all settings at Default; and there is always a single setting that does this. There is almost always a switch or button on the motherboard that can also do this if you can't boot to the BIOS. Even if you can't do that, you can even short across the MB battery for a second or two, or remove it from the board for a while and then put it back in. But obviously do the easiest thing first and only worry about the others if that turns out to be impossible. In any case, you may have already done this by setting it to "automatic", but it would be best to double check to see that there isn't another setting that would set all parameters to the BIOS defaults. It's possible that "automatic" is part of that....or it could mean that it "automatically" does some kind of overclocking. For troubleshooting purposes, you do NOT want it to do that. Setting BIOS to all default settings should disable any kind of overclocking. Then I would get rid of that Afterburner program; either disable it and make sure it's not starting itself on reboot, or uninstall it altogether. You can always reinstall it later if you want....you might even get a more recent version from MSI than you have now. Then run RoF and FiF in a completely standard hardware configuration and see if it happens anymore. If you don't want to go that route, there is a utility called "ModSearch" you can run on RoF that will find old mods, or remnants of them, inside your installation of RoF. For some reason it will show a lot of paint files as mods, but you can ignore that part of the results. If it shows ANYTHING else besides those paint files, you get rid of it. The only way to accomplish what you would by running "ModSearch" would be to run "Recovery" through the RoF Game Launcher. I would never do that until I first saved a LOT of information from my game installation, like all of my paint folders, snapviews, controls map files, etc. This is because you lose all of that doing a recovery, so it would be like starting from scratch if you didn't. I attached the ModSearch program plus supporting files in a zip file, if you want to try it. All you have to do is unzip the files, then place all 3 of them in your "Rise of Flight" folder. Then just run the executable. It will show you something like this: Ignore anything that it shows inside of the "skins" folder (any *.dds files). But do look carefully for anything else it might be showing, other than paint files. To get rid of any specific file that it finds, you just check the box next to it, and then "Delete Selected". EDIT: All required files now included in the attached archive. S! ModSearch.zip

Thanks for the info and review!

Me too. I can talk you through it sometime if you like (tonight after Ghost Skies?) S!

What is your browser, Maus?

Seems like a good policy to me....

Oh, boy....problem solved!! It has nothing to do with having VPC Configurator installed. This is embarrassing! For some reason, I've never had the "Gamepad and Joystick Hotkey Support" plugin installed in my TeamSpeak! Google is your friend. A lot of people have had problems with certain game controller buttons not being sensed, or not working properly if they are sensed. TeamSpeak support has issued many fixes over the years, but my problem was I had no plugin at all! So I just browsed for the latest plugin, installed it, and voila, it works instantly. I will keep JoyToKey, for potential future use if I ever have a need to emulate keyboard keys. But man, I didn't expect a thing like this to happen. Admin, you can delete this entire thread if you want....it's all bogus on my part....only value here is a lesson learned about advertising your own stupidity Sorry for wasting all your time, folks. S!

Thanks very much for the information, Wolf; that is exactly what I wanted to see. Apparently it doesn't specify the controller with the button, but obviously it knows the difference. I don't have as many devices as you use. This is what my setup looks like: I did try an experiment where I started my computer and made sure NOT to start the VPC software, in case it has some process running after you start it. Then I went straight into TeamSpeak and tried to set any joystick button for PTT. None of the many buttons I tried on either stick or throttle was sensed by TeamSpeak. My version of TeamSpeak 3: If you can remember, what procedure did you use when you "went back to direct game input"? Did you have to uninstall your controllers and then reinstall them? It is hard to imagine that simply deleting the VPC Configurator folder would change anything by itself alone. That amounts to simply not running the Configurator program, and that doesn't seem to help for me right now. Thanks again! BTW, does anybody know exactly what "Voice Activation Detection while using Push-To-Talk" does? I've never had that enabled, was wondering how it would affect things.

WELLL....who is laughing now? You see what reading gets you I think I over-complicate things. As I said, "the joke's on me" , I guess....

Much that can be misunderstood from those 2 statements above; but my assumption is- 1) TARGET is software that is offered by Thrustmaster for Warthog (and other?) Thrustmaster sticks 2) You use the Scroll Lock key for PTT in Teamspeak (?) or for some other function with BoX (?), which you possibly emulate using Spad.Next In any case, since your stick is neither a Virpil or a CH, are you able to program a joystick key for PTT directly into TeamSpeak, or are you forced to emulate a keyboard key? If you are able to select a joystick PTT button for TS directly without emulation, and you have MFG's joystick software installed, that would be significant to know, seeing as how MFG software at this point seems to be the thing that could be causing the problem of not being able to select a joystick button directly within TeamSpeak right now. Second thought: Knowing that Pfeil also has a TM Warthog, and does NOT experience the problem of not being able to program a joystick button directly for PTT in TeamSpeak, again.... is it because he doesn't have any software (TARGET) installed?

@ all those for whom TS direct joystick button selection works, just for basic understanding, can you tell me what appears in the TS PTT button select field when you push your appropriate joystick button? Is it something like "joystick X, button Y", or something to that effect? For me, nothing at all appears in that field when I push a joystick button (or at least, that particular joystick pinky button). As I said before, in my own case, I have never, ever seen this work directly. It could be just my bad luck, or the fact that I have always installed the manufacturer's software (through my own ignorance?). What would be interesting to know would be, if somebody DID install the MFG's software, and it STILL worked directly in TS. Recently, I had talked to GenMarkof, and he had indicated to me that in the past, he's had one brand of joystick that did work with TS directly; and another one that didn't. In either case, I am not clear as to whether he had the MFG software installed, or not. In my own case, all I can do is select the keyboard Tilde key (obviously I could choose another key)....which does appear in that field. Then it just works later, because as far as TS is concerned, when I push my pinky button, I am just pushing the Tilde key.

Guess that means you had a need to emulate keyboard commands, as I seem to (in my case not for RoF or BoX; only TS). So I'm not the only one! Do I remember correctly in that, you use CH Products?

I think you all are correct, or at least on the right track. I think it might be because of the VPC Configurator software, or at least the firmware that it loads from that. The reason that I say that is because out of all of you, only Ludwig actually has a Virpil setup, and you can't compare apples to oranges. One thing I CAN say is that when I had a CH stick before this, I had the SAME problem; but I was able to emulate keys with the CH Control Manager software, so the problem was moot. But the point is, that I DID have CH Control Manager installed with that stick, and TeamSpeak WOULDN'T recognize a button press from that joystick either. And I already know, from having talked to Ludwig earlier, that he does NOT have the VPC Configurator software installed; and he does NOT have the problem of TS not recognizing a button press, which I did not know until now. If I had known that he was able to program a button directly in Teamspeak, I would have seriously wondered what the difference was....but would have been hard to imagine that it would be caused by the VPC Configurator software....unless I made the connection to having the same problem with my old CH software too. I have to admit, I sort of laughed (to myself) when Larry told me he "just plugged it in, and everything just worked". That is NOT how they tell you to install the stick and/or throttle on their website. There are posts there of people saying this doesn't work, or that doesn't work, and then they always say you have to install the VPC Configurator software and update the firmware. So I assumed you HAD to do it, if you want everything to work properly. I never once considered that you might not need that software at all. I think the joke's on me! So I'm sure there ARE some things you need the software for, especially updating the firmware. But, my assumption was that it had nothing loaded into the firmware when you got the stick or throttle, and that you must at least load in a default config file for it to work at all. That assumption was obviously wrong. There may be some other things that might not work, which Larry doesn't use or just hasn't noticed....like some of the analog axis that are not the main ones, or the digital axis (in fact I'm pretty sure he told me this concerning those) or the way in which some of the switches work. His stick DOES have a different base (he has T-50 and I have WarBRD), and the controllers are in the base, and there IS a different config file for a WarBRD + MT50 Grip as opposed to a T-50 + MT50 Grip (the M stands for Mongoose). So that could be a reason too why they act differently. It is all just conjecture until somebody has a WarBRD + MT50 grip setup, and shows that TeamSpeak does sense a button press if you don't have the software installed. In fact, you'd have to verify that physical button 4 (the pinky button) is the one that could work. I never even tried other ones, I never had any available not being used for other purposes, and to be honest I never expected it to work anyway, because for me, I've never had it work with any stick I've had in the past 20 years, LOL. So I searched for another solution. So a big question now is, what if I uninstalled the VPC Configurator program? Would it work then? I have a very hard time believing it would now, since the current firmware has already been loaded, and I can't go back to what was in it originally. The VPC Configurator program is not what I would call an "active" program. It only starts up when you initiate it; there is nothing in the system area otherwise. In fact, when you start it, the stick and throttle "load back" into the software from the hardware; that's when you see that green "SYNC" appear....until that happens there's a big red or yellow message basically saying that the software/hardware is not communicating. Also, the VPC software works without the registry, like the JoyToKey does; you just stick the folder anywhere you want, and just run the executable any way you want to. Also, it does NOT show up under the installed programs list in the Control Panel (neither does JoyToKey). Just another reason I don't believe it does anything in the background when it is not running. It's only purpose is to make changes to the configuration of the stick or throttle, save and download them into the hardware. It does also have a nice calibration utility (which as we know can be done elsewhere in Windows or DIView), and other test utilities (DIView included, graphical axis testing and other USB information stuff). But in any case, I just can't see how it would actively interfere with what TeamSpeak sees. After all, the buttons are obviously outputting data; DIView shows that, and of course every one of them works within every game that I have. So why doesn't TeamSpeak see what they all see? Sorry this is all kind of overblown. I knew most of you would not have this problem since you have other sticks. I thought maybe it would help somebody who now has, or might in the future have, a Virpil stick, until such time as they come out with a software version that CAN emulate keyboard key presses, OR a firmware version that plays well with TeamSpeak. I wish I had known then what I know now; I could have at least tried it. I think maybe I read too much before installing my hardware....but that's what I do. Glad you're all working well, sorry for the mess. S!

For you current or future "Virpils", as they're called on their website- I guess for quite a while now, intermittently, I've had problems with hot mike "deep breathing" with TeamSpeak because of using Voice Activation. It seems no matter how much I bump up the threshold, move my mic away from my mouth, and below, I still sometimes end up with folks hearing some mighty strange sounding voice inputs. Perhaps I've even managed to acquire a reputation for myself....this is embarrassing to say the least and always to be avoided. The whole thing is caused by what we in the trade call VOX (Voice Activated Squelch). Once a certain audio power threshold is exceeded, the squelch is broken (mic is activated) and then it holds it open until a certain time after all audio ceases, even if that audio power level is lower than the level required to break (activate) the VOX. That's so that you don't get transmissions that cut in and out, with the varying power levels contained in speech. In my case, one single sound or transmission could break the VOX, then it holds open for the smallest (or not so small) breathing sounds after that. Simply increasing the VOX level doesn't eliminate all problems because any sharp sound like a "P" of "T" sound, or similar, can break it and then it can hold open. The obvious solution is to use PTT instead of VOX. I've had plenty of excuses for not using PTT with TS in the past....with my old CH stick, I just plain had every convenient button assigned to something else, and the best keyboard key that worked for PTT for me without interfering with game functions always seemed to be the Tilde key....but I was never willing to force myself to look down at my keyboard during fights and wasn't willing to sacrifice my SA and tactical communication in order to do that. Now that I have a Virpil setup, very early on I was chagrined to find that the VPC Configurator software that comes with the stick / throttle has no capability to emulate keyboard keys (unlike the old CH Control Manager). You can change logical button assignments, but you can't emulate keyboard keys....as of this time.... (rumors say it will be able to in the future). No matter, in both RoF and BoX I was able to assign all needed keys and axis using standard DirectX buttons assignments. I thought I could get away with not needing to emulate keyboard keys; but TS just won't sense a joystick button for PTT in my case. I checked the Virpil forums for any recent developments, and found one thread that mentioned third party software for this. It sounded overly complex....but one guy mentioned an application that was supposedly pretty simple: it's called JoyToKey. I decided to D/L it and try it; it's free for trial, and if it works for you and you like it, a license is $7.00. Basically it runs in the background and changes game controller key presses into keyboard key inputs as you require. You just unzip the D/L and stick the folder wherever you want....it doesn't use the registry, and if you want to get rid of it, you just delete the folder. All you need to do it run the executable, which of course you can do from a shortcut or taskbar....or you can set it to run automatically on startup if you want (I didn't). Well it wasn't as simple as I had hoped, but it does work. One of the main problems is figuring out which controller is what with respect to how the app sees them; they just have generic names (it may be possible to rename them after you figure out which is what). "Joystick 1", Joystick 2, etc., is all you get initially. Also, there is some difficulty figuring out what button number is actually the one you want to assign in the app. You would think that the logical button wouldn't be that hard to figure out, but there's nothing to tell you at first whether the button number within the app is a physical button number or a logical one; and even then, some apps see a logical button as one number, and others as another number (usually they're one off for some reason). For instance, VPC Configurator may see a logical button number of 18, and JoyToKey may also see it that way, but Windows will see it as button 17, and so will DIView. So you have to work out by trial and error, as far as I know, which controller ID and which button number to actually program. My guess as to why this is, is because some programs may use a button 0 (zero) for the first button, and count up from there; and others may ignore zero and start with button 1 and count up from that.... so you end up with logical button numbers being one off from one program to another. Here's some screen shots of VPC Configurator showing the physical and logical button that it sees as being the "pinky" button on the joystick (physical button 4); and since the associated logical button of 18 is what seemed to agree with JoyToKey, how to reprogram that key to act as the Tilde keyboard key with that app. Once you know logical button 18 works in JoyToKey, here is how to emulate the Tilde key. As the note says, the fields work in order from top to bottom, if you want to program multiple key presses. Also, there are special situations you can get to work if you're in need of doing that: This is how you edit the button assignment to achieve that: You don't have to, but you can make your profile the default profile, or associate it with a specific program (like TeamSpeak). This is under the Settings menu; I did both. For the Application Path, it has this neat feature where you have the program you want to associate with open in another window, then you push a button in the association window of JoyToKey, and you have a specified number of seconds (you can set that), to just click on the open program window you want to associate to, and it automatically enters the path to that program: And it works. Say goodby to the "deep breather" and hello to the newer, less talkative Luftritter Hopefully, in the future, I will KILL (or die) in silence S!

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