Vonrd

Yeah, I've used it for a while and it works great and is really easy to set up. I think Heinrich uses it also.

Gen, get this utility. It ahs a built in repair: https://forums.eagle.ru/profile/27849-skatezilla/

Then, what does this mean?

I'm pretty sure that some of the modules are Steam incompatible. That's why I don't have anything DCS on Steam.

Boz at his best

Hi Pragr, I tried the low level attacks as shown but my results weren't as satisfying as yours... . The issues I found is that the altitude and airspeed are pretty critical. My sight picture for the drop was also a bit different from yours. Maybe due to pilot head position? The other issue for me was that the wing bombs come off first (I believe... I'm not sure since I had unlimited ammo set) and they dispersed to the sides. Here is the point of drop on low level. Note the sight picture. Also note the wing bombs dropping first. This was "drop all" with the minimum interval of 0.05 seconds. Note that some went wide and some long. Tank was destroyed though so... success! This is my preferred attack. 20 deg glide bomb. Power is set at continuous settings and never changed. Bomb setting at "drop four bombs and the minimum interval of 0.05 seconds. Note sight picture is the bottom of the glass. It doesn't seem that there is much difference in bomb splash position due to minor variations in airspeed or dive angle (emphasis on MINOR). This glide bomb attack is also my preference for Jabo attack but the advantage with the A20 (and it's a SIGNIFICANT advantage) is the ability to select multiple bombs with one button press. No matter how quickly I press the button in Jabo, I can't match that 0.05 sec interval. I just wish that there was a quantity option between 4 bombs and all bombs. Of course, everyone will have different preferences but the only way to know what works best for you is to practice all methods. Here is a link to the Tank Busting Practice mission that I was using. Jade Monkey did the original. I just changed the Player plane to the A20. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9oxgn213tm8a29v/AACNSPjLsadQuBTI17xgv_bMa?dl=0

Masters of harmony

I consider this kind of stuff "mechanic porn" though I'm pretty sure that any aviation enthusiasts get a bit woody...

https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/70762-24-hour-flash-sale-on-tc-fc1-and-bobp/page/4/

This came out when I was competing with my best friend for a girl... I lost Another one from "The Song TGL" CeeLo has a great voice

Have you guys submitted tickets with 1C support? I have gotten responses from them pretty quickly when I have. The forum... not so much. I would give it a shot and give them a chance to help resolve your issues.

@Heinrich, flying on Finnish tonight I was also getting about 60 fps (I had mistaken the field of view for fps, thus the claim of 90). I also had difficulty IDing enemy from friendly up close. I could see dots from quite a long ways away but close up is problematic. Currently, I wouldn't use it for tournament. Will continue to tweak, but it's not something that I enjoy much.

Some of you know that I recently got a Reverb G-2. I'm really pleased with it. I rocks in BOx... I'm getting about 90 FPS with settings almost maxed out. I also installed the VRNeckSafer which is ridiculously easy and eliminates the issues that I had with checking six in VR. I think Heinrich uses it also. Here's the link and I highly recommend it: https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/67985-simple-tool-to-check-your-six/ So, my issue is with DCS. I'm only getting about 35 to 40 FPS and it's not as smooth as BOx with those frame rates. Before I go down the rabbit hole in trying to improve it, I thought I'd see what y'all's settings are. I've attached my system specs and DCS settings. I have not done anything in Nvidia Control Panel yet and have no other mods such as shaders. Could you VR guys post your settings in DCS and any other things that you are doing in the way of graphics? Any hints / advice is most welcome. I have not overclocked anything yet and it looks like that might be in my future. I have no experience in doing so. I've looked through Tubeville and there are a daunting amount of tubes there. Does anyone know of a reputable YT tutorial on overclocking both GPU and CPU? Thanks in advance!

As Tobin mentioned (and I had no idea about) the wires that Saitek uses may be steel and therefore a major pain to solder. As a last resort (and you may have nothing to lose) you might try an acid base paste flux: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WLD51011?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Paint-Body-Equipment&campaign_id=10947560788&adgroup_id=110533803034&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAiAkJKCBhAyEiwAKQBCkkTBq-bmKgkRj_bFn6QJiMlK4MzHhQPZea9Ts62af4bZWHhWQUGCgBoCIFIQAvD_BwE& Just be sure to clean the joint thoroughly with alcohol and a baking soda solution after soldering since it is an acid and will corrode any metal it comes in contact with.

Not having seen the actual wires (and I'm not about to open my Saitek pedals... why tempt fate ) I don't know what the actual gauge is. Rule of thumb is that when splicing, it's ok to go one or two gauges larger (Never Smaller!) in a pinch. I would highly recommend soldering if you are going for a splice. We often use "environmental splices" on acft but they need a special crimper (and needs to be calibrated annually). https://peerlesselectronics.com/650076-000-splice?utm_campaign=utm_campaign&utm_content=utm_content&utm_medium=utm_medium&utm_source=utm_source&utm_term=utm_term&utm_campaign=9526344450&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=421850933646&utm_term=&adgroupid=97013154373&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyoeCBhCTARIsAOfpKxhqYIJPPQJqKlGQDC-c_5wtn1SgFbcsauS-f06Mb0INLhoG03TfenQaAqmaEALw_wcB In my R/C model days I would use a small section of brass tube (similar to the metal crimp part of the environmental splice), crimp it with pliers (just to hold it in place) and then solder it. Really, it's not that sensitive for what you need to do. Twisted together wires would probably work (just be sure to insulate... heat shrink tube is best). Still, soldering is not difficult and I recommend replacing the wire from the circuit board to wherever it terminates. In soldering, cleanliness is paramount. Get a tin of rosin flux and use rosin core solder if you can get it. Keep your soldering iron tip clean (damp sponge to wipe it while hot). And... practice on test wires before doing the real thing. This is a skill that will stand you in good stead in the future. Still... twisty wires will most likely work. I do realise that the wires in the Saitek are TINY. To answer your question... yes, it's OK to splice in larger wire. Just make sure that there is adequate length and have the heat shrink insulation extend some length into the original thin wire to act as stress relief. The connection of the splice is where it will want to fatigue and crack. Good luck.

Sweet!

Typical of all Saitek gear. I've been lucky so far but they use non flexible wires and route them poorly. Splicing would probably work but the best option would be to replace the wire completely from point to point but in order to get it back up quickly a splice would be fine. The very slight add in resistance would have no affect since the milliamp (microamp) is way low. I'm not sure what the strand count is for flex wires. 22 to 30 ga is more than adequate. Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/StrivedayTM-Flexible-Silicone-electronic-electrics/dp/B01KQ2JNLI/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Flexible+Stranded+Wire&qid=1614998391&sr=8-7 If you have some sort of electronic device that you can cannibalise you could probably rip some wiring out of it. Just check that it can be flexed multiple times and not feel "stiff". "what exactly are these little metallic braided wires?" They are probably shielded wires which have a braided wire jacket on the exterior of the wire which is separate from the actual center conductor. These shields are connected to ground and prevent RF from inducing "noise" into the circuit. I'm not sure that they are absolutely necessary in our controllers. This is an example of aircraft grade shielded cable: https://www.steinair.com/product/22-ga-single-conductor-shielded/ Don't worry about the shielding if you're just splicing.

Sad news: https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/70020-a-great-one-passes-on-to-higher-heights/

Yay! I was about to suggest checking your router ports but didn't think about the router firewall.

Yeah, my adrenaline would be pumping too

This is interesting... he uses a piece of plywood to stabilize his pointing hand...

I placed a preorder but it will probably take a while

Do you have any plans on trying it? It looks interesting and I'm considering making a pre-order.

Anybody using this or know more about it? https://pointctrl.com/

Total suckage! Would it happen to be BH Photo? I get a lot of stuff from them and they are good service.